Progression into the Highlands: A Pictoral

Lowlands, near Edinburgh

Midlands, from the bus

Highlands, "Caledonia"

The Highlands: Rainbows, Castles and Nessie

My day tour to the Highlands was terrific. I boarded the bus early in the morning and for the next twelve hours, our guide drove us from Edinburgh into the Highlands and informed us about everything Scottish: history, culture, music, and legend. I was incredibly impressed with our guide, Donnie. He simultaneously drove the large tour bus and told us everything we needed or wanted to know for the ENTIRE TIME without missing a beat (and his homemade mixes of contemporary and classic Scottish music were awesome). I must say my comment card for the tour was probably the closest thing to a fan letter I’ve ever written. You could really tell that Donnie loves being a tour guide almost as much as he loves his country.

On the tour, we saw many sights made famous in the movies Braveheart and Rob Roy (Donnie: “great movies but a little dodgy historically”), several castles and stately homes (including Duone Castle, used as Castle Anthrax in Monty Python and the Holy Grail - "What is your name? What is your quest? What is the air-speed velocity of an unladen swallow?"), and plenty of rough, rocky mountains, glassy lochs, ferns and Scotch pine. All the while, Donnie told us about the clans, tartan, livestock, early queens and kings and their contributions (Robert the Bruce, Macbeth, St. Margaret) and all kinds of fun words that emerged from Scottish culture. I think that if Scotland is ever a category on Jeopardy that I would do quite well.

Perhaps my favorite part of the trip was our stop at Loch Ness, where I took an hour cruise on the dark, mysterious loch (the fog and murk was perfect!) As our group was boarding the boat, a fantastic rainbow arched across the sky to the water. It was probably the sixth rainbow I had seen that day, but definitely the brightest and I was able to get a great picture. There was no sign of the infamous Loch Ness Monster, but we did get good views of some castle ruins and small villages and learned about the ecology and geology of the loch. Also amusing was the boat’s skipper, who said “Are there any Americans on board?” When about seven of us nodded, he deadpanned “Remember the Boston Tea Party? I’m still not over that.”

Loch Ness
When I was younger, I believed that when the sun shone down through the clouds, it meant God was looking at the Earth - that's still a nice thought.

Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness, constructed in the early 1200s and left as a ruin in defense of Jacobite invasion in 1692.

My only Nessie sighting. The first report of a monster in the loch was in the 6th century, and the famous photo, later admitted to be a hoax, was taken in 1934.

Hamish McKay Denovan, Cutest Cow EVER!!!!

Greyfriar's Bobby

One of the most famous sights in Edinburgh is the statue of Greyfriar’s Bobby, a Skye terrier that lived in Edinburgh during the late-19th century. Millions of tourists from around the world visit the statue each year and books and movies have portrayed versions of the true story of the little dog with a lot of heart. When I was little, I read the story of Greyfriar’s Bobby in a book and I have never forgotten about the little black terrier. It is such a sweet story that I wanted to share it with you.

Bobby was owned by a policeman, John Gray, who died in 1858. For 14 years after his master’s death, the little dog laid on his grave in the Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. Initially, the church groundskeeper tried to deter Bobby, but touched by his loyalty and determination, the groundskeeper allowed the dog to stay in the cemetery and even fashioned a shelter under two stone benches. Bobby would leave only for food given to him at a nearby restaurant and on very cold nights he was taken in by kind residents. Famous in his time, people would stand at the gates to watch Bobby leave and return at mealtime. To protect Bobby, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh Council paid the dog’s licensing fees so he would not be considered a stray and gave him a brass identification collar.

When Bobby died in 1872, he was buried near the gates of the church (he could not be buried with his master because the cemetery was consecrated ground) and a monument was erected near the Kirkyard gates. It features a granite fountain topped by a statue of Bobby which was sculpted a few years before he died. Later, the humane society erected a stone for Bobby at the entrance of the churchyard with the inscription “Let his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all.”

Literary Edinburgh: A Tradition of Duality

After the aforementioned dinner, Katie and I headed to the Beehive Inn to embark on our literary pub tour of Edinburgh. A flyer for the tour was in the welcome packet Katie had compiled for me (see, I told you she was a great tour guide and hostess!) and we decided it would be a fun evening out. However, I think William really thought that it was a “guy’s evening in” for him and Bob and we girls were leaving so they could play Playstation in peace. Poor little man, I think two weeks of giggling and beauty products had him at a breaking point.

If you are not familiar with Scottish literature, it is populated by the writings of several literary giants. Robert Louis Stevenson (Kidnapped, Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde), Sir Walter Scott (Ivanhoe, Lady of the Lake, Rob Roy) and Robert Burns (“Scotland’s favourite son” and National Poet, Auld Lang Syne, Red Red Rose, his poetry was the inspiration for the titles of American greats Of Mice and Men and Catcher in the Rye) all called Edinburgh home at one point in their lives and some of their most famous works were inspired by people or events in the city.

The tour took us through three centuries of Scottish prose, poetry and drama as we traipsed across the streets and alleyways of both Old Town and New Town. Taking breaks between information, we stopped at three historic pubs and sampled some of the famous Scottish whiskey and beer. Our guides were two actors, Clart and Ms. McBrain, and their argumentative dialogue centered around the dual nature of the literary life of Edinburgh. On one side, Clart argued that the great literary contributions of Edinburgh’s authors and poets came from the city’s seedy underbelly, a world of shady dealings, heavy drinking and “hoo-ring”. Ms. McBrain, an erudite scholar, highlighted the other side of Edinburgh – literary recognition leading to celebrity status in elite circles and the revered legacies of the city’s finest writers.

Their banter was interspersed with performances of Scottish prose and poetry to support their point of view: Ms. McBrain gave sweeping and gallant readings countered by Clart with off-color verses by the same author. The tour was highly entertaining and made its point: to understand Scottish literature and its underlying themes, one must recognize that the two vastly different sides of the city combine to create the whole. A perfect example of this is Robert Louis Stevenson’s Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. Though thought to be inspired by the real life story of Deacon Brodie (see the Bob-tour post), it is also a social commentary on the split nature of Edinburgh in the late-19th century: a city of vast poverty and crime countered by wealthy merchants and achievement in learning and medicine.

The evening ended with a sampling of encounters with Edinburgers that did nothing to dispel Clart and Ms. McBrain’s debate. There were high brow citizens dressed to the nines on their way to dinner or the theater as well as drunken revelers shouting and singing in the streets and on the bus. When we returned to the flat, I gave my own impression of the duality of Edinburgh - I found I had an alter ego while wearing my new tweed hat. Actually, I think Katie’s cat Merry made the distinction because she looked shocked and even insulted when it was on my head.

Haggis, A Scottish Culinary Experience

At the start of our Saturday evening out, Katie treated me to dinner at Monster Mash, a very hip little restaurant near the University that specializes in traditional UK cuisine and amazing and inventive “mash” (mash potatoes). Katie chose a dinner of pork and apple sausages with mustard mash, while I continued on my adventurous eating streak and ordered the haggis.

This was not my first venture into the realm of the famous Scottish food with the less than appetizing ingredients and preparation methods (Curious? Here’s a Haggis Recipe ). During my first visit to Edinburgh, I decided to try haggis for the novelty of it and found that once you get past the contents, it is actually a very tasty, spicy dish.

The Scots serve their haggis several ways, traditionally with neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes), on pizza or deep fried. I had mine on a large pile of some of the best mashed potatoes I’ve ever eaten, layered with pureed turnips, cooked carrots and a steaming brown gravy.

Exploring Edinburgh Bob-style

It is not often in my travels that I have a native so readily available to ask all of the six million questions that I manage to formulate about everything I see or hear. That is why I was positively thrilled when Bob offered to take me around to some of the lesser-known sights in Edinburgh. I absolutely love “off-the-beaten-path” tours and the excellent one Bob provided on Tuesday took me on the outskirts of Edinburgh as well as the in paths of hidden streets and alleyways along the Royal Mile.

I learned about Deacon Brodie, a pillar of the community by day and burglar at night (who was later hung on the same gallows he helped create) and marveled at stones carved with quotations from Scottish literature and the “Narnia Lamp” in a hidden courtyard. We also visited Craigmillar Castle, strategically located on a hill outside of Edinburgh and surrounded by fields of rush and heather.

My favorite stop (and where we spent a good part of the afternoon) was at the Royal College of Surgeons Museum. At the same time as the Scottish Enlightenment, great medical advances were being made in Edinburgh, including an understanding of sepsis and new innovations in anaesthesia. The museum had a very interesting chronology of medical developments and the Hall of Pathology was filled with incredible specimens of diseased and injured organs and bones. I really wished Matt had been there to better explain some of the things I was seeing and I know he would have really liked the orthopaedic display.

My many thanks to Bob for a fun and educational day!!

University of Edinburgh

Monday was a bank holiday in Scotland which meant Katie had the day off from work and William was home from school. Despite the cold, sporadically wet weather, we decided to venture out and walk around the Old Town campus of the University of Edinburgh. Until two years ago, Katie’s office used to be located at Tevoit Place in the old Medical College, so she was able to provide a very interesting and detailed tour of her old stomping grounds.

The University of Edinburgh is world renowned for its teaching and research. In the 18th century, it was the center of the Scottish Enlightenment, a period that was marked with major advancements in intellectual thought. Some of the writings from the Scottish Enlightenment, especially the letters of David Hume and Hugh Blair, are of particular interest to me because Thomas Jefferson attributes them with greatly influencing his political and rhetorical philosophy (but I’ll save that discussion for Kristin Cook on Wednesday).

The campus is rife with old stone buildings, leaded glass windowpanes and carved stone reliefs over entranceways and windows. Student flyers were plastered across old iron lampposts and blew in the wind across Bristo Square, an open space full of steps and concrete where students congregate between classes and on sunny days. The streets surrounding the campus are full of cafes, vintage clothing shops and pubs. We stopped in Starbucks to get some coffee to warm our hands and in a small bakery for Katie’s favorite pineapple and cream confection before heading on a drive to Leith, Katie’s first home in Scotland.

Irn-Bru: Sugar to the Max

I know, I know - I haven't been keeping up to date on my blog posts. I've been doing a bit more seeing this week than writing about what I've seen. The past week has been full of personalized tours: Katie took me to the University of Edinburgh (both the old campus and the new one where she works) and Bob took me around to some of the lesser known sights in Edinburgh, including the Royal College of Surgeons Museum. There will be pictures and stories to follow as soon I as I have a moment to get them posted.

There is a lot on the agenda for the next several days as well. Tonight, Katie and I will be heading out to dinner and the Edinburgh Literary Pub tour. And next week, I will be heading to the Highlands for a day to take in Glencoe and Loch Ness and meeting with Kristin Cook, a doctoral student at the University and fellow Jefferson aficionado. For now, we're hanging out at Katie's flat, watching some TV, playing on our laptops and eating a delicious box of chocolates Katie brought home from Morrison's.

Minutes ago, I was talked into trying Irn-Bru, a Scottish soft drink famed for its unique flavor and astronomically high sugar content. It is also known for its alleged curative powers for hangovers and is more popular in Scotland than Coca-Cola. Bob told me it was a must-try during my visit and assured me that it was "EVIL". This much hyped introduction lead me to wonder what exactly I was getting myself into, but game to try something new, I cracked open the can and took a sip. Katie documented the event in the pictures above - I'm not sure I was immediately taken by its bubble-gummy flavor. Maybe it's an acquired taste?

P.S. Yes, I'm wearing a wool sweater and hat - it's THAT COLD!

S. Langford, Princess of __________ (you fill in the blank)

Yellowcraig Beach: Trying Out My New Trench

An Undeniably Pastoral Scene

pas·to·ral [pas-ter-uhl, pah-ster-] –adjective
1. having the simplicity, charm, serenity, or other characteristics generally attributed to rural areas: pastoral scenery; the pastoral life.
2. pertaining to the country or to life in the country; rural; rustic.
3. portraying or suggesting idyllically the life of shepherds or of the country, as a work of literature, art, or music: pastoral poetry; a pastoral symphony.

Come live with me and be my Love,
And we will all the pleasures prove
That hills and valleys, dale and field,
And all the craggy mountains yield.

There will we sit upon the rocks
And see the shepherds feed their flocks,
By shallow rivers, to whose falls
Melodious birds sing madrigals.

- Christopher Marlowe

Rosslyn Chapel

On Sunday, Katie and I braved the cold and rain to visit the famous and conspiracy-rich Rosslyn Chapel. Located several miles south of Edinburgh, the late-Gothic period structure has garnered much tourism and attention over the years as the location of scenes from both the book and movie, The DaVinci Code. During my first visit to Edinburgh, in 2003, I tried to find a bus to Rosslyn. My friend Justin Morgan had wowed me with tales of its mysteries and relationship with the story of the Holy Grail and Knights Templar. However, I didn’t have much luck locating a bus and had to save an inquiry into its secrets for another day.

Though none of the great intriguing questions were answered, the elaborate and often curious stone carvings in the church’s interior were fascinating to explore. The images depicted came from a wide range of influences: both pagan and religious, peaceful and disturbing. There were angels of all types: frolicking, playing instruments, guiding knights to safety and even an upside-down Lucifer falling from Heaven. The allegory of the Seven Deadly Sins was depicted from an archway and a very creepy devil peeked out from the top of a column (see above). There was also a very musty crypt below the church that held Templar stones from a nearby churchyard.

The other treat for the day was driving throught the village of Roslin which is adjacent to the chapel. It was another quaint village much like South Queensferry, but had its own unique Scottish country flavor. Incidentally, Roslin is also the home of Roslin Institute which is famous for cloning Dolley the Sheep in the late 1990s. We drove by the gates and were able to peer down the drive at the modern laboratory buildings which were an interesting juxtaposition with the Scottish countryside and centuries old cottages and cobblestone.

Zelda Shreve-Langford, Diva

I have just received word that Zelda (a.k.a. Irish Gold Full of Folly) has just won Best of Breed at the Greater Clarksburg Kennel Club Dog Show. How will we ever live with her now?

The Royal Mile, Edinburgh's High Street

More Pictures from The Royal Mile

High Kirk of St. Giles

Interior, High Kirk of St. Giles

Bagpiper, Near the Castle

Admiral's Close

Meet the Teacher Night

On Tuesday, a very special tour guide took me on an extra special tour: William showed me around Royal Mile Primary School during Meet the Teacher Night. Each morning, I wish him a good day as he sets off for school with Katie dressed in his uniform: a white polo shirt, red pullover and dark slacks, so it was neat to get to see where he spends his days. Katie and I got to meet his teachers and take a tour of the building including his classroom and desk, the coat rack where he hangs his coat and bag, the library and a large mural completed by his class. We heard nothing but good things from his teachers (including a kind reminder for him to take home his homework) and were impressed with his informative and thorough tour. It was certainly a very proud moment as a godmother.

Climate Shock: The Chill Factor

Today my quest is to find a coat to wear so I am not constantly shivering in the cool Edinburgh air. A few months ago, when I was making decisions as to what of my clothing would be shipped to Okinawa and what would go to storage, I packed away most of my cool weather clothing and coats in favor of clothes that would suit me in a subtropical climate. Little did I know then that I would be spending three weeks in Scotland. When I did know this, it was too late - all of my warm clothes, albeit a few light sweaters and a jacket, were packed away in a storage unit in Portsmouth. Needless to say, I have spent my first few days here rubbing my arms and hands together and borrowing Katie's coats. Yesterday, after I visited the palace, I bought a latte to keep my hands warm on the walk home.

I think my sensitivity to the climate is compounded by my year in realtively temperate Portsmouth, visits to hot Jamaica and San Diego, and two weeks in humid Okinawa. I have become accustomed to high 80+ degree weather, and Edinburgh has at most mustered a high in the mid-sixties. Yesterday morning, it was 47 degrees. Don't get me wrong, I love the cool mountain breezes, they are what I grew up with, but it's a shock to the system when you've been gallivanting about without nary a scarf or gloves for over a year. Since landing, I've been murmuring about getting a trench coat and have looked a couple when we've been out and about. However, I have decided today is the day - I will not shiver, shake or wear all of my clothing simultaneously any more. Katie has armed me with information on some stores and their locations and after some breakfast, I wll be on my way.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the British monarchy’s home when they spend time in Scotland. I had not been able to visit the palace during my last trip to Edinburgh because Queen Elizabeth II was in residence, so during this visit, Holyroodhouse was on the top of my list for sightseeing. It is located on the other side of Holyrood Park (where we hiked this weekend) and sits at one end of the Royal Mile, one of the most historically significant streets in Edinburgh.

The palace was built in the seventeenth century, adjacent to an abbey that dates back to 1128 (only ruins remain). It is perhaps most famous for being the home of Mary, Queen of Scots, but has also been a favored retreat for monarchs since Queen Victoria. The architecture definitely has a Baroque influence, but also features Palladian styling in its design. In the quadrangle, I discovered that on the palace’s exterior, each floor features Greek columns: starting with Doric on the ground floor, Ionic on the second and Corinthian on the third.

Like many historical homes, no photography is allowed in the interior, which was luxuriously furnished and decorated with well-preserved original pieces. My favorite room was the evening sitting room where the monarchs receive guests after dinner. There were four gorgeous tapestries with scenes from the British Empire that has been brought from London by Queen Victoria and a large portrait over the fireplace of the late Queen Mother, of whom I was always a fan.

The other room that was impressive was the royal bedchamber. The crimson brocade draped bed was stately, but I really admired the tapestries and ceiling mural that portrayed scenes from Greek mythology, such as Herakles ascending to Olympus. One reason I really like visiting historic homes from this period is because of the amazing neoclassical influence on the art work – I can actually interpret what I am viewing rather than just nodding at portraits of ancestors I am not familiar with and will soon forget.

A Moment of Reflection

The world ought to be more tolerant but some things remain intolerable.

- John Locke

The price of freedom is eternal vigilance.
-Thomas Jefferson

I would like to take a moment to reflect on the lives lost due to acts of terrorism on September 11, 2001, pray for the families of victims and survivors and also the men and women across the world who are tirelessly defending the liberty and freedom of their own countries as well as others.

South Queensferry

On Sunday, Bob took us on a drive around the northern outskirts of Edinburgh. Our destination was the village of Queensferry and its famous Forth Rail Bridge. We also got to see Katie’s old flat and the port of Leith and other sights along the Firth of Forth. Bob is a very informative guide because he has lived in Edinburgh for over six years and is very interested in its history and progress. I’ve been flooding him with questions about things I am curious about every time he comes over, and I’m learning a lot about the Scots culture from both Bob and Katie.

I saw the rail bridge from the sky as my plane was descending into the Edinburgh airport. It was so impressive from the sky, I asked Katie about it when she picked me up to take me to her flat. It was built during the Victorian period out of over 50,000 tons of steel in a cantilever design that was lauded for its strength. According to historians, the bridge served as a symbol of the achievement of Scottish engineering. An interesting fact is that the bridge takes so long to paint that as soon it is finished, it is ready for a new coat at the other end.

The rail bridge, and also the Forth Road Bridge, connects South Queensferry to North Queensferry on the shore of Fife. We didn’t go across to the other side because traffic was very heavy, but I really liked the little village of South Queensferry. It was very quaint, with stone cottages and cobblestone streets lined with pubs and tiny shops. If I am able, I would like to go back for the day to explore it more and have lunch at Hawes Inn, a pub featured in Robert Louis Stevenson’s Kidnapped.

A Hike in Holyrood

On Saturday, the weather in Edinburgh was glorious and sunny, with a nice breeze whipping though the air. Katie said it was some of the best weather of the entire summer. I think the other inhabitants of Edinburgh agreed because they were out everywhere – picnicking, biking, walking with each other and their dogs.

William had not taken his new scooter for an outside ride, so we decided it would be a great day to visit Holyrood Park. The park is a virtual wilderness in the heart of Old Town Edinburgh and is located only minutes from Katie’s flat. Many guidebooks say that it offers a sample of all the landscapes of Scotland: glens, hills, lochs (lakes) and crags (mountains). It also offers very picturesque views of the city and its surroundings. The jewel of Holyrood Park is Arthur’s Seat, a long extinct volcano that is the highest point in Edinburgh.

We took a small paved path around a loch filled with swans and other birds before heading off across a glen on a light climb up one of the crags. I got to see plenty of heather and thistle growing in the wild, and from our vantage point observed some ancient stone ruins and sweeping views of Old Town and the Firth of Forth. It was a marvelous way to get some fresh air and spend my first afternoon in Scotland.

Home Away From Home

My greeting in Edinburgh was wonderful – Katie and William running towards me in the airport and giving me huge hugs before leading me to the car. William pulled my suitcase, which may have been as big as his eight-year-old self and informed me that he hoped it was heavy with presents. After some protestation, we dropped William off at school and Katie got me settled into the flat with a cup of tea before she headed to work. Just like my visits to her in years past, starting with the college house and its door marker “Katie, Doyle and sometimes Shannon”, I felt instantly at home at 11 Portobello Road.

We’ve had a great weekend of catching up on stories and photographs. Friday evening, I met Katie’s significant other, Bob, for the first time. He is very nice and we had a great time laughing and talking and I look forward to hanging out more during my visit. He took us on a Sunday drive yesterday (more on that later) and was very insightful to the sights along the way. On Saturday, William and I had a lazy morning around the flat while Katie slept in and later we all went out for a hike in Holyrood Park (pictures and details to follow) in the spectacular end of summer weather. Yesterday, it was a bit cloudy, so Katie and I spread out the beauty products, brewed a pot of tea and watched movies. And yes, there was LOTS of giggling :)

Today, I am again without my adopted family, Katie is at work and William at school, but I am enjoying the sunshine in the windows as I email, blog, drink tea and plan my sightseeing itinerary for the next few weeks. The other news is that Matt has been in touch (HOORAY!) and is doing well in Korea and is planning a trip to the Korean War Memorial next week. There is not much time or access for communication, but I cherish every moment we get. I hope you all had a great weekend and stay tuned for some more blogging soon!

Typhoon Fitow: An Escape from Tokyo, An Early Morning in Paris

My visit to the Narita Air Mall was not meant to be. When I checked in for the next leg of my flight, I was informed that the plane would be departing over two hours early to avoid the impending landfall of Typhoon Fitow. My first flight had almost been diverted to another airport because of the weather, but had managed to land despite the heavy rain and wind. A few hours later, all of the airlines at Narita were either canceling or expediting their flights. I had time to get something to eat and buy some snacks for the plane before it was time to head through security and passport control.

Our takeoff was certainly one of the most unique I have ever experienced. I took the above photo from my window before we left the gate – visibility was almost zero. During our taxi, water was literally pouring off the wings of the plane and the wheels were creating a wake of water on the runway. You could certainly feel the pull, much like when you are in a car driving through standing water. The pilot was spot on when he announced the first hour of the flight would be rough, but that things would eventually smooth out.

The result of my early flight was that we landed at Charles DeGaulle in Paris at around 3:30 in the morning. My flight to Edinburgh did not leave until 7:20 a.m. Previously, I had been looking forward to a cafe au lait and some brioche during the layover. However, at that hour, I was not feeling much esprit and absolutely nothing was open in the airport. There was only one soda machine near security, and I only had yen and dollars – no euro. So I sat and zoned out to my iPod, read and slept a little.

Finally, at six, a coffee cart opened near my gate and after getting a piping hot cafe mocha (no brioche :( ), I talked to a fellow Tokyo passenger who was also waiting on the Edinburgh flight. He was a graduate student in Scotland who had been in Tokyo working on his thesis, a human geography study of public parks in Japan. We managed, in spite of the early hour, to have a pretty interesting conversation about human geography and its relation to linguistics (how I could recall and provide a detailed explanation of Sapir-Whorf, including specific cultural examples before sunrise is still a mystery – maybe I should apply a jetlag technique before my thesis defense). It was a good way to pass the time, and very cool hearing about another student’s project and quite a bit about the university system in Scotland.

The Japanese Know How to Design an Airport

Hello all!

I'm currently at Narita Airport in Tokyo. The international departures terminal has a FIVE STORY AIR MALL with shops, restaurants and a relaxation center (nap rooms, massage chairs, showers). I'm waiting for Air France to open so I can check-in for my next flight, but then I'm heading off to check out the mall. You can take a look, too: Narita Airport, Tokyo

An Open Letter to Robert Murphy, Katie's Significant Other

Dear Bob,

I would like to apologize in advance for the extreme girly-ness that is about to commence on Portobello Road. I hope that your male senses are able to tolerate the giggling and squealing as well as the proliferation of health and beauty products from the inevitable Boots run and visit to the EL counter. You see, your significant other is one of the best friends a girl can possibly have, and we will be making up for lost time as well as storing up enough fun to tide us over until the next visit.

I hear that you have already viewed the famed Macarena and Clifton Moor videos, so you may have had some preparation for my arrival. A few terms you might want to familiarize yourself with are “Nivea”, “Badger”, “Pillsbury” (and the associated tee-hee giggle), and assorted pirate phrases that emerge with the wearing of bandanas and eating of fish and chips, curry and mushy peas. Please also excuse any fashion modeling and/or creative costuming and understand that we are not crying, we are laughing, unless we are crying and then we are really crying, but soon will be laughing.

Sincerely,
Shannon

Exploring Chatan-cho

I was pretty bummed today because I was really missing Matt when I woke up this morning. It was the first day that I really let his absence get to me. I think it is because there is so much I have wanted to tell him and we haven’t yet been able to be in touch. I found out this evening from the call chain that the Marine communication system is down in Korea and not expected to be up for the next couple days.

The past few days I have been exploring the area around our apartment and the city of Chatan-cho. It is considered one of the most Americanized parts of Okinawa, mostly because it is bordered by three military bases, and is home to Mihama – the American Village. However, the neighborhood where our home is located is quite Japanese. Each day, after some breakfast, reading and emails, I started off in a different direction on Kamisedo to see what I could find. I liked walking through the neighborhood because I felt like I could see more and take more in. Since it is so hot here during the day, I went in many of the shops along the way – groceries, drug stores, antique galleries, shoe stores (with everything from traditional Japanese sandals to New Balance), aquarium and pet stores and of course, the ubiquitous 100 Yen shop.

Yesterday, I wandered clear to Mihama, which is about a thirty-minute walk. I went down to the beach, which is considered one of the prettiest on the island and found the cool dragon sculpture. I also explored Jusco, the giant department store, for a bit longer than Matt and I had when we stopped to look for tatami mats for our floors and slippers for our feet. It is a very fascinating place: half mall/half department store with a food court and supermarket. Smaller boutiques are located along the sides of each floor, with the department store in the middle. I found out that in Japan I wear a 38 in women’s clothing and a size 24 shoe – I am definitely not considered a petite here!

When it was time to head home, I decided to take a taxi because there was a dark cloud looming overhead, a good sign that one of the frequent downpours was about to occur. The taxi experience itself almost made my day. The taxi was immaculately clean and the seats and seat backs had white lace and linen covers. The driver wore white gloves and spoke no English. One thing I should mention is that Japanese do not name their streets and often the numbers are based on when the buildings were built, not where they were located. So you cannot get in a cab and say “815 Kamisedo”. Actually, I ended up giving the driver directions, in very elementary Japanese (and with GREAT help from my phrase book) on how to get home. I was limited to one-word phrases like “hai”, “migi” and “hidarii”, but I still felt like I had made a small accomplishment.

Eisa and Obon: Prayers for the Dead

My second night in Okinawa, I awakened to some very curious noises: a twangy plucking, drums and voices that ranged somewhere between wailing and chanting. At first, this cacophony (and that’s what I decided it was at 11 o’clock at night) was at a distance, but then it seemed it was directly outside our apartment. The tune, once I discerned that there was a tune, was actually quite infectious and the next morning, when I recalled this nocturnal parade, I thought I might like to hear more.

As it turned out, I would have the opportunity: my arrival in Japan coincided with the holiday of Obon, a Japanese-Buddhist celebration honoring the spirits of their ancestors. Much like American Memorial Day, Obon is a time of family gatherings, visits to tombs and other activities that pay respect to deceased family members. Part of Obon, one that I had experienced in the night, is dancing both in parades and festivals around Japan. Each different region has its own special form of music and dance, and eisa is the name of the traditional folk dance of Okinawa.

Eisa is now performed for entertainment, but for centuries it served as a religious service to memorialize the ancestors of Okinawan villages. The troupes performing eisa are made up of about 20-30 young people who wear brightly colored costumes. The men typically dance, play drums and the sanshin (the plucky instrument) and chant, while the women dance and sing. Eisa is something that is taught in schools, so many of the dancers have been familiar with the tradition since a very young age.

After the next night, when the eisa dancers again paraded under our balcony (and Matt and I ran out to watch), I became a fan of eisa. There is such an energy to the movements of the dancers and the unique way the instruments and voices sound together – something that is at first odd to Western ears, but then begins to make sense. I was very happy when I learned that over the weekend, there would be an eisa festival held at a stadium near our apartment. Matt and I went and enjoyed performances by two eisa groups. We were able to stand down on the field close to the action (there were reserved seats in the packed stadium) and we were quite impressed with how physically demanding the dances were, especially on the guys that both danced and carried the big drums.

If you would like to take a look at eisa, the following link will take you to a YouTube video of an eisa parade in Naha, the capital of Okinawa.

Eisa Parade in Naha

I hope you enjoy the pictures of the eisa dancers and other scenes from the All-Okinawa Eisa Festival!!!