Saturday, December 15, 2012

Salzburg: That Mozart Guy

Statue of Mozart in Mozartplatz, Old Town
 
Mozart's Birthplace on Getriedgasse
 
Mozart's family also lived in this home on Markartplatz in New Town

 
Christopher's favorite Mozart. He wanted to see the "moving statue" every day.
 
Monument for Mozart's wife, Constanze, and other family members in St. Sebastian's Cemetery. Mozart was buried, as was custom, in a common grave in Vienna.
 
Memorial arcade at St. Sebastian's Cemetery. It was recreated at a soundstage for the escape scene in Sound of Music.

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Salzburg: Essen und Trinken

 Augustinerbrau

     I noticed that when several of my friends were sharing their favorite things in Salzburg, different foods were often at the top of the list. I know that when we were planning our trip, I kept saying to Matt "and we can do this and then go here to eat this." Austrian cuisine is pretty fantastic. It has many similarities to German food and in Salzburg, the nearby Bavarian influence is strong. There is a lot of meat, potatoes and dumplings of various shapes and consistencies. I consider it comfort food for its savoury flavors, warmth and ability to keep your tummy full and happy for a long time. And if you still have room, Austrian desserts are confections straight from heaven.
      Early on in our visit, I gave Matt a quick rundown of what to expect and how to pick something from the extensive menus. My advice to Matt was that you can never go wrong with Austrian soups or gravy. Some of our favorite dishes that we tried were wienerschnitzel (veal) with a mushroom gravy and curried rice, venison stew with potatoes and wild boar schnitzel (melted in our mouths without the least bit of gaminess). Our favorite soups were a creamy pumpkin and a clear broth with dumplings. At our frequent cafe stops to warm up and take a break between activities, we savored fruit and cheese strudels, layered cakes and strong, dark, Austrian coffee.

Christopher gets his first taste of Apfelstrudel from Cafe Tomaselli.

Coffee and pastry at Cafe Tomaselli
Known as a "new-fangled, Viennese-style cafe" when it opened, Cafe Tomaselli was a favorite of Mozart's wife, Constanze.

Food vendor's hall at Augustinerbrau
Pretzels, kasekrainer (cheese filled sausage) and pommes frites at Augustiner.
Prost! Toasting our Augustiner mugs of apple juice and beer.
Stiegl - home of a Salzburg beer and a great place to warm up after a chilly morning touring the fortress.

Plate of meats, cheeses and relishes at Stiegl-Keller.

Sunday, December 9, 2012

Salzburg Scenes

 Festung Hohensalzburg
 
 Goldgasse

 Hotels in New Town along the Salzach
 
 Signs along Getriedgasse

 Man atop a Mozart ball - new to me!
 
 Looking down Linzergasse at the spire of St. Sebatian's church
 
 Salzburger Dom

Pferdeschwemme fountain

Salzburg: The Dom

 Side of the two bell towers of the Dom (and entrance to the Christmas market)

     I've been inside of a lot of churches. Some of them marvelously gilt, filled top to bottom with treasures, paintings, sculptures and materials of the finest quality. Others humble and bare with worn wooden benches, faded carpets, and a simple cross on the altar. Although I can appreciate all of them for their individual beauty as a place of worship, very few of them have the ability to take my breath away like the Salzburg Cathedral. There is something incredible about its interior that makes my breath catch and release in a peaceful sigh as soon as I enter its cool darkness. The pews are dark, heavy wood and from there, the walls and ceiling loft upward in arches covered in the curlicues of Baroque design. 
     A cathedral has stood on the site of the Dom since 774, but the current structure dates to 1628. During World War 2, an Allied bomb dropped through the dome causing extensive damage. The dome was rebuilt and finished in 1959. An interesting bit of trivia is that after my 1997 semester in Salzburg, I found a photograph of the cathedral while looking through an antique book shop in Elkins. Though I don't have an exact date on the photograph, it is evident that it is from pre-World War II and gives a hint of how the Dom appeared before the bombing. On the back is an inscription from a photographer's studio on the square adjacent to the cathedral. It's always made me wonder if someone else from my hometown also felt a special connection to the Dom. 
 
 Interior from the nave
 
 Top of the dome

 Putti in the arcade arches

 Vibrant portraits from scripture fill the walls and ceilings of the arcades.
 
 The contrast from the ivory and beige Baroque walls lends impressive visual impact.

Poignant and one of the most crowded areas during the first week of Advent.

Salzburg: Mirabell Gardens

 Mirabell Gardens with a view of Festung Hohensalzburg

     Our first morning in Salzburg, we awoke to fresh snowfall floating down from the sky between the pastel colored buildings on Wolf-Dietrich Strasse and onto the cobblestone street. Christopher had been asking to play in the snow since we had whisked past snow-covered fields on the train from Munich, so after breakfast, we headed to Mirabell Gardens so he could frolic in the white powder. 
      Mirabell Gardens is probably one of the most iconic and scenic spots in Salzburg. It was the setting of the famous "Do-Re-Mi" scene in The Sound of Music and provides beautiful views of the Festung Hohensalzburg in the distance. Historically, it is the site of a palace built by Archbishop Wolf-Dietrich Raitenau for his mistress and mother of his 15 children, Salome Alt. Archbishops were not allowed to marry, but his relationship with Alt was lifelong. The palace was later rebuilt into a larger home for subsequent archbishops. Now, it serves as public offices as well as a concert and wedding venue. The surrounding gardens are seasonal and feature both marble and bronze statues of mythological people and creatures.
     One of my favorite parts of the garden, which hold the stone statues of numerous dwarves of different occupations, was closed. I was disappointed that Matt and Christopher couldn't see it, but in looking for another entrance, we found a playground that had been constructed since my last visit in 2003. After some play time and a brisk hike back into the gardens, we warmed up in the adjacent orangerie, a tropical hothouse and turtle fountain located on the side of Schloss Mirabell.


The famous Pegasus fountain

I was ambushed! The Von Trapp family was inspired to sing and dance in the gardens, but the Langford family shared many laughs tossing the new-fallen snow.

Christopher uses a bucket and pulley in the small playground we found behind the gardens.

Time to warm up and visit the turtles in the Orangerie of Schloss Mirabell.

The morning snowfall didn't put a damper on these pretty pansies.
The gardens with a view of Schloss Mirabell in the background.

Friday, November 30, 2012

Joints on my mind



     I’ve been putting off this blog post. I’ve debated about whether to share the information in this space for several reasons. It isn’t as full of the joie de vivre of our travels and cultural experiences,  and I feel like my only way to truly capture what is happening is to lay my soul a little bare. Sometimes that can be scary because often, when something is wrong it is easier for me to bottle it in. At the same time, I know that this experience is as every bit of a part of our lives here as all of the fun and exciting things that we are getting to do.
     My joints are hurting. Not in the way that Matt and I laugh about that we are getting old or ruminating over an old injury that gets a little achy when it rains. Really, really hurting. Screaming. Almost all of them. I had hoped the climate of Sicily would give me some relief from the intermittent flare ups of joint pain and stiffness I have been experiencing for the past two years. For a few months, it was sweet relief and then a little over a month ago, I woke up with the familiar stiffness and soreness that I had felt stateside and it began getting progressively worse. So bad that the pain burning in my knees and ankles made it hard to use our steps and even lifting a half gallon of milk made me cry out because of the pain in my fingers and wrists.
     At my last rheumatologist appointment before we left Virginia, the doctor suggested that we monitor the situation, chart my flare ups and that I continue to use prescription NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) to help quell my discomfort.  He advised me that if there was any change that I should see someone here to reevaluate my lab work and other tests. Once the results were in, I was disheartened to learn that several of the tests that had once been negative are now positive and pointing toward a definite rheumatological disease. In my heart, I knew this was inevitable, but it still hurt to hear. However, as my very pragmatic husband pointed out, it just means that now we are closer to a diagnosis and treatment instead of just trying to alleviate symptoms. Though it may seem harsh to some, I found a lot of comfort in his assertion (and I think it’s one of the reasons we are good for each other).
     Even though I try to concentrate on that, I wouldn’t be truthful if I didn’t say that I have felt a lot of worry and frustration. Worry about being diagnosed with a degenerative illness that can be tricky to treat and will last a lifetime. Worry that I won’t be able to be the wife and mother that I want to be to Matt and Christopher. Worry that my life is beginning to change in a way that I won’t be able to do some of the things I love to do, even things that seem small like handwriting notes. Worry that new people I meet and the wonderful friends that I am just getting to know will know me as someone ill and unable rather than my active and energetic self that I know is there under the hurt and fatigue. And then there are some worries that I can’t even bring myself to verbalize but occasionally loom in the recesses of my mind.
      For the most part, I am able to push the worry aside and focus on all of the positives. Matt and Christopher have both been wonderful at accommodating me these past few weeks and making sure I am comfortable and not pushing myself too hard.  My new friends here have been a blessing by checking in on me, offering assistance and prayers. My new primary physician seems to be doing all that she can to figure out what is going on and get me proper treatment.  There have been major advances in the treatment of autoimmune and rheumatological diseases since I worked at the Arthritis Foundation several years ago and the prognoses are much better than they have ever been.  
     Another way that I have been comforted is by seeking God’s words and wisdom. One night last week, when my almost every part of me was hurting too much to sleep, I went through my Bible and started marking some of the verses that I found particularly meaningful and comforting. A couple of days later, when my fingers were feeling more nimble, I copied them down so that they were easy accessible any time that I am feeling discouraged. I’ve been praying longer in the mornings and evenings, asking God to help me cope and not to worry and thanking him for the days that I do feel better and am able to resume my normal pace of life. My communes of prayer are one of the reasons I decided to write this post. God gave me this body, and as my friend Virginia once pointed out, he gave me the exact body that He wanted me to have. Right now, I might not understand why my joints have to hurt, but I know that He has a plan for me.
     The other night, as I tearfully searched through scripture, several of the verses spoke very directly to me. I felt a charge through the words of 1 Corinthians 6:19-20: “Or do you not know that your body is a temple of the Holy Spirit within you, whom you have from God? You are not your own, for you were bought with a price. So glorify God in your body.” I’ve read this passage plenty of times in my life, but now it has never seemed more pertinent. So glorify God in your body. I need to glorify God, even with my hurting and inflamed body. Though I am still working through the how in my mind and praying that I am led to an answer, I know that this is what I need to do. I’ve found a lot of strength in that.
     Thank you friends and family for reading this, it has taken a lot off of my mind. xoxo

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

10 Reasons I Can't Wait to Get to Salzburg

With some lovely ladies at the 2003 Christkindlmarkt

     Nothing, not even my creaky joints (more on that later), can quell my enthusiasm for our week-long trip to Munich and Salzburg. We depart Saturday morning, and for about the past week I have been planning, planning, planning everything that I want to see, do and hear with Matt and Christopher. I can't wait to show them this nook of the world that I hold so dear to my heart. I've probably talked their ears off with some of my experiences and my wishlist for the coming week. In no particular order, here are some of the things I can't wait to do with them:
1. Portrait of Jesus in the Dom - There is a large, beautiful painting of Jesus in the nave of the Salzburger Dom that captivates me. When I am standing in front of it, I feel such peace and presence. When I felt stressed or troubled during my two semesters in Salzburg, I often went here to find solace.

2. Augustiner - Second to Haus Wartenburg, I probably spent more time here than anyplace else in Salzburg. Studying, reading, writing, people watching or socializing, the cavernous rooms filled with wooden tables and benches are so familiar to me that I can close my eyes and smell them and hear the dull roar of Austrians of all ages laughing, eating and drinking.

3. Wandering up and down Getriedgasse - The ironwork signs and cobblestone streets make this one of my favorite places to people watch and window shop. Plus I love ducking into passageways and finding previously undiscovered shops and cafes. I'm hoping the organ grinder with the monkey and the lady selling handmade marionettes are both still there.

4. Coffee and sweets at a cafe - There is something eternally lovely about sitting down in an immaculately decorated cafe, ordering a coffee and some delectable sweet such as Sacher Torte or Mozart's Mistress and spending a leisurely hour or two reflecting on your day. Our hotel offers afternoon "Kaffee und Kuchen," but I also plan to visit my old haunts of Cafe Tomaselli and Cafe Nimetz (where my friends Iris and Sarah and I once made dinner of dessert).

5. Schnitzel with noodles - And warm apfelstrudel, kasekrainer, pretzelbrot, Mozartkugel, tafelspitz, spaetzle, gluhwein, all kinds of wursts and crusty rolls. Did I mention I love Austrian cuisine? YUM! And Doner Kebab, because that is an institution unto itself :).

6. The Orangerie at Schloss Mirabell - I found this little jewel by accident, but its the perfect place to warm up if the weather is a bit nippy after strolling through the gardens. The glass room contains exotic plants, iron benches and a water fountain where small turtles swim and lounge on rocks. If only all of us could have such a room attached to our house. 

7.  The Glockenspiel and other bells of Salzburg - One of the other sensory delights of Salzburg is its glockenspiel and bells of the surrounding churches, convents and monasteries. The surrounding hills may be alive with it, but the town is also full of the sound of music. I love to hear the different tones of the bells and occasionally catch a peek at them swinging in their towers. 

8. Christkindlmarkt - I'm delighted that our visit will coincide with the beginning of the Advent season. Salzburg at this time of year is incredible. The market is full of vendors selling Austrian street food, warm spiced wine and traditional Austrian crafts. Street musicians form impromptu holiday concerts. You can run into a gentle St. Nicholas or wild and wooly Krampus just walking down the street. 

9. Crossing the Salzach - The view either direction is beautiful. From the Old Town side, you can see the elegant Hotel Sacher, Mozart's Home and the rising Kapuzinerberg. From the New Town, the view is breathtaking: the spires and domes of the churches, the Baroque facades of the buildings and above it all, the Festung Hohensalzburg.

10. Gruss Gott - I can't wait to hear my first greeting of "Gruss Gott!" once we land in Munich. How pleasant is it that a phrase that translates roughly as "may God greet you" is the default greeting in Bavaria and Austria? I've been teaching Christopher to use it and can't wait to hear his little voice chirp it back to someone during our trip.