No "O sole mio"

     
      There have been many works of literature that have extolled the virtues of Venice. Their glowing depictions note with ebullience the magic and glory of the canaled city, or discuss with romantic melancholy its decline and decay. For some, their impression of Venice is as poet, romantic and beautiful as these works. For others, Venice is not so luminary as they float through dirty canals and trudge through flooded piazzas thick with tourists and pigeons. I've experienced both of these atmospheres, but could never equal the disenchantment Mark Twain found with the iconic Venetian gondoliers:

     "We reached Venice at eight in the evening, and entered a hearse belonging to the Grand Hotel d'Europe. At any rate, it was more like a hearse than any thing else, though to speak by the card, it was a gondola. And this was the storied gondola of Venice!--the fairy boat in which the princely cavaliers of the olden time were wont to cleave the waters of the moonlit canals and look the eloquence of love into the soft eyes of patrician beauties, while the gay gondolier in silken doublet touched his guitar and sang as only gondoliers can sing! This the famed gondola and this the gorgeous gondolier!--the one an inky, rusty old canoe with a sable hearse-body clapped on to the middle of it, and the other a mangy, barefooted guttersnipe with a portion of his raiment on exhibition which should have been sacred from public scrutiny. Presently, as he turned a corner and shot his hearse into a dismal ditch between two long rows of towering, untenanted buildings, the gay gondolier began to sing, true to the traditions of his race. I stood it a little while. Then I said:
     "Now, here, Roderigo Gonzales Michael Angelo, I'm a pilgrim, and I'm a stranger, but I am not going to have my feelings lacerated by any such caterwauling as that. If that goes on, one of us has got to take water. It is enough that my cherished dreams of Venice have been blighted forever as to the romantic gondola and the gorgeous gondolier; this system of destruction shall go no farther; I will accept the hearse, under protest, and you may fly your flag of truce in peace, but here I register a dark and bloody oath that you shan't sing. Another yelp, and overboard you go.""
- Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad

Magnificent Ephesus

 

Library of Celsus at Ephesus

      I really wish that we would have had more than one day in Turkey. However, the day that we did get to spend was full of unique experiences that helped make it our favorite port call on the cruise. We docked in the port city of Izmir, once known as Smyrna (in an interesting connection to our earlier travels, the Knights of Malta were once defeated in battle in Smyrna). We were able to see a modern Turkish city and learned that we were in Asiatic Turkey as opposed to European Turkey. 

      Our next stop was "Magnificent Ephesus" as our tour guide kept promising us on the short bus ride to the archaeological site. Ephesus truly is an all-star of the Ancient World. Founded by the Greeks and later ruled by the Romans, it was one of the largest cities and commercial centers in the Mediterranean. The names of the prominent residents and guests that walked its cobblestones is a veritable Who's Who of ancient history.

      According to legend, Ephesus was founded after its location was indicated by the Oracle of Delphi to an Athenian prince. It was ruled by Croesus of Lydia until conquered by Cyrus the Great and his mighty Persian army. Alexander the Great defeated the Persians and marched triumphantly through Ephesus' gates in 334 BC. The Emperor Augustus made Ephesus the capital of proconsular Asia and shortly thereafter, the Apostle Paul came to Ephesus as a vantage point to manage his evangelical efforts across the region. The orator and statesman Cicero called his arrival and reception to the city "one of the most flattering experiences of my life."  Later, after a sacking by the Goths, the city was rebuilt by the Byzantine emperors Constantine and Justinian.

     Ephesus' decline came not from one of the many conquering powers, but a force of nature. Slowly, over several centuries, the harbor was filled with silt from the river, rendering it unreachable from the Aegean Sea and its strategic location for trade. The city fell to ruin and was largely ignored until German and Austrian archaeologists began excavating in 1895. It is estimated that the ruins that have been excavated only represent about 15% of the former city. However, walking through them easily gave us an idea of the splendor that was Ephesus. One could easily imagine the bustling city and its crowds gathered to do business and discuss politics. Magnificent indeed!

Street of the Curetes leading from the political to the public areas of Ephesus. This main street was lined with shops and behind them on the hill stood private houses.  Instead of tourists and guides holding vibrant orange umbrellas, the passage was once bustling with commerce.

The Library of Celsus was not built during Paul's time in Ephesus; however, he would have been familiar with the Gate of Augustus at the right that leads to the agora. Standing on the steps and in the ruins of the library was an amazing experience. The carvings were so highly detailed and well preserved. The accessibility was incredible. Unlike most ruins I have toured, you could walk right in and imagine yourself as a citizen of Ephesus. 

Looking up while standing at the front of the Library of Celsus. The carved detail and its preservation are amazing. Completed in 135 AD, it is one of the few remaining examples of a Roman influenced public library. At its height, it stored 12,000 scrolls.

Columns surrounding the commercial agora of Ephesus. Christian missionaries like Paul, Timothy and Barnabas would have worked in this space both at the trades that supported their livelihood and at spreading the message of Christianity. Their grassroots efforts began in the agora and other public spaces. As they gathered followers, they would begin to meet in private homes to worship.

Columns lining the other side of the agora. Now called the Arcadian Way, this thoroughfare led to the western gates of Ephesus and the adjacent harbor. There is an illustration very similar to this one in the Cokesbury Bible I was given at Duff Street United Methodist Church when I was promoted to third grade. 

Ampitheater of Epehesus. Paul often spoke to gathering here and was imprisoned on the hill above the ampitheater. It is thought that this is where he wrote the letter that would become 1 Corinthians. During Greek rule, the ampitheater was used to stage dramatic performances. Later, it became a venue for gladitorial combat under the Romans. Most recently, it has been used as a venue for rock concerts until it was discovered the amplification was damaging the ruins.

Athens: The Glory that was Greece

The Parthenon 
 

          I've had a hard time trying to think of how to approach my Athens post. I get so excited about Classical Greece that I become overwhelmed with all of the information I want to share and can't decide how to prioritize. I love the mythology, the literature, the drama, the art, the architecture, the philosophy (and the sophistry!). I love that its culture shaped Western Civilization and its influence can be seen in so many things today. In thinking about all of this, I realized that maybe I should write about how I became interested in the glory that was Greece, and why I was like a little kid on Christmas eve before our day in Athens. If you would like to learn more about the time period, the BBC online has some great resources for all ages at their Primary History site here.
        My first experience with Classical Greece was when I was four-years-old. I played the young Ismene in a college production of Sophocles' Oedipus Rex. I had two brief appearances on stage - playing with a wooden toy and skipping across marble steps with my sister, Antigone (played by my friend, Laura) and crying and clinging to my father, Oedipus, blinded by his own hand and lamenting his cursed family (the bloody bandage over his eyes was pretty traumatic and it took some convincing my concerned little self that the actor was just fine underneath). Though the plot of the drama was beyond my comprehension and I spent most of my time in the green room playing with Laura and entertaining the Greek chorus, I was hooked. I got to wear a toga with gold bands wrapped around it and in my hair. I loved the columns and the steps of the set, and the dramatic speeches of the older actors and actresses.
        Next, I learned to read and someone gave me a book (maybe from a Scholastic book fair?) about the Greek gods and goddesses. My favorite story was about Athena and  Arachne. I also loved the stories of the Trojan Horse and The Minotaur and the Labyrinth. Most of my imaginary play centered on the inhabitants of Mt. Olympus. I loved to pretend to be Athena, while my friends and cousins filled in the roles of the other goddesses such as Aphrodite, Hera and Artemis. My dolls, dressed in tissue paper togas, also took the roles of the goddesses and other figures in mythology. As my reading skill increased, so did my eagerness to read anything Greek related: encyclopedia articles, art and architecture books and mythology. I was fascinated by the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and wondered what it would be like to sail into Rhodes and see the giant Colossus standing watch over the port.
     In tenth grade, I was delighted when my parents generously allowed me to go on a class trip to Italy and Greece, and I got to actually experience the Parthenon, the Agora, and the oracle of Delphi. My interest expanded to the politics of Ancient Greece, the roots of democracy, and the discoveries of the Greeks that became important building blocks in Western culture. I returned two years later, to compete in an international public speaking competition, and the fact that Athens was the home to oratory was not lost on me. Maybe it is no coincidence that I chose rhetoric as a field of study (though I think I have the influence of an exceptional mama to also thank for that).
      Now that I'm older, I can appreciate some of the finer nuances of Classical Greece. I see that the themes, both social and political, are enduring and have repeated themselves time and time again across the centuries. I don't always agree with Plato, and have a particular soft spot for some of the sophists, such as Gorgias and Lysias. I better understand the plot points of Sophocles, I can laugh along with some of Aristophanes' humorous dialogue, and I enjoy the language not just the sets and costumes. I still wonder what it would be like to sail into Rhodes and see the Colossus, and I hope now that I've introduced Christopher to some of the delights of Greece that one day he will, too.
      

 Move over Schliemann, there's a new archaeologist in town. Christopher concentrates on excavating at the Acropolis. The Erectheion temple is in the background.

The Caryatid Porch of the Erectheion. Each statue of a Peloponnesian maiden has individual facial features, hair and clothing. The three on the right have their right knee raised and the three on the left have their left knee raised. Remarkably, the statues are carved in such a way that the slenderest portion, their necks, provides support for the roof of the porch.

Capitals of two Ionic columns excavated at the Acropolis site. The majority of the Parthenon is constructed in the less decorative Doric order, but it does contain some Ionic elements.

A view of the Agora from the Acropolis with the Temple of Hephaestus. In Ancient Greek, "agora" literally meant "gathering place." The Agora was the center of public life in Athens. Political and judicial meetings were held here as well as sporting events and markets.
 

 Stadium from the first modern Olympic games in 1896. Built entirely of white marble, it was the finish line for the first modern marathon run from Marathon to Athens.

Graffiti on the walls of a historical building of the University of Athens. There is currently great political unrest in Greece due to the debt crisis and corruption in the government. Athens is frequently the center of protests, but we experienced a quiet day in the Greek capital.

 The National Archaeological Museum of Athens
"A great city, whose image dwells in the memory of man, is the type of some great idea. Rome represents conquest; Faith hovers over the towers of Jerusalem; and Athens embodies the pre-eminent quality of the antique world, Art." - Benjamin Disraeli, British Prime Minister

Minoan pottery in the "Marine Style." Much of the archaeological record of Ancient Greece comes from its durable pottery. The inscriptions and images on the over 100,000 recovered pieces and fragments have given a great insight into the lives and minds of Ancient Greeks. This octopus vase celebrates the rich relationship between the Minoan culture and the sea. It was probably used as a storage and transport vessel.

Jockey of Artemision. An excellent example of bronze Hellenistic sculpture, this statue was found in a shipwreck off the coast of Cape Artemision in 1926. The boy represented is thought to be a slave jockey that was approximately 10 years old.

Perhaps my favorite picture from the day :)

Greek Theater in Four Acts

     For each of our trips, I have tried to create some fun age-appropriate activities for Christopher that will get him involved and teach him a little bit about the history or culture of the place we will be visiting. For Malta, we made swords and shields and found some picture books about knights at the Sigonella library. Ancient Greece has been a passion of mine since I was very young, so I couldn't wait to think of some exciting ways to introduce Christopher to such an amazing time in Western history.
      I knew that we were going to visit the Archaeological Museum in Athens and see one of its prize artifacts, the "Mask of Agamemnon." I thought making masks might be an easy way for Christopher to recognize something we had talked about before our trip. Before we left, we had a silly afternoon with paper plates, glue and gold paint. On the cruise, we put on some performances for Matt that were definitely more comedy than tragedy. And at the Archaeological Museum, to my delight, and the surprise of some nearby adult museum goers, Christopher exclaimed "The Mask of Agamemnon!" when we walked in front of the case where it was held. Mama was so proud! :)

 Prologue

 Parados

 Parabasis

Exodus

The real "Mask of Agamemnon"

Dubrovnik: Wine and the Walled City

A view of the Franciscan Monastery and down the Stradun from above the Pile Gate.

     Our first port of call was Dubrovnik, Croatia. Before our visit, my impression of Croatia had been from the many news images of war torn devastation that came from the breakup of the former Yugoslavia in 1991. I knew that image was outdated because since that time, Croatia has rebuilt and redesigned itself as a tourist destination featuring miles of pristine Adriatic coastline and cultural-rich towns and cities. 
     Dubrovnik, often called"the Pearl of the Adriatic," was founded in the 7th century and began to flourish as a seaport by the 13th century. Over the course of several hundred years, Dubrovnik was ruled by powers such as Venice, Austria and Yugoslavia, until it was liberated by the Croatian Army in 1992. In 1979, the old town was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site for its well-preserved medieval walls and its Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, monasteries and palaces. 
      We enjoyed a nice leisurely afternoon and evening in Old Town Dubrovnik. Matt and I have quickly adapted our tourism itineraries to traveling with a toddler. Though Christopher is an excellent traveler and at least mildly interested in most everything he comes across, he has his limitations. Our most effective strategy has been to pick a few highlights to explore at relaxed pace with several snack and play breaks inbetween. We might not make it to all of the noted sites in a city, but I feel like the slower pace has enabled us to soak in bit more of the atmosphere than if we had been running from landmark to landmark. 
      In Dubrovnik, we chose to walk along the city walls, which gave us a panoramic view of both Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea. The walls were built between the 12th and 17th centuries and are reinforced by intermittent towers and bastions. The walk was at times narrow, marked by steep stairs and uneven cobblestone, but we were able to get an amazing look into the city as it bustled below us. Through the spread of rust-tiled roofs, we were able to spot laundry lines heavy with shirts and linens, cats sauntering down alleyways and children kicking a ball in a courtyard. About halfway through our walk, we stopped at a wall-top cafe for some refreshment. Christopher was enthralled by the orange juicer as well as the attractive teenage waitress that offered to demonstrate it for him. 
      Back at city level, we strolled down the Stradun, the wide pedestrian street that bisects the Old Town from the Pile Gate to the Bell Tower and Church of St. Blaisus. Near the end of our walk down the Stradun to the Pile Gate, we stopped at the Dvino Wine Bar for a sampling of Croatian wine, sausage and cheeses. We learned about Dvino through our Croatian guidebook, and the reccomendation was well warranted. 
      We tasted three wines made from the Plavac Mali grape grown on the Peljesac Peninsula of Croatia. Based on where the grape is grown and harvested, it produces three distinct wines. Plavac, grown on flat land, is a light and fruity wine. Postup, grown on landed hillside, is medium to full-bodied with a smooth, earthy feel. Finally, Dingac, grown on sea-facing hillside in full sun, is a heavy and dry wine. Matt and I decided our favorite was the Postup. It paired incredibly well with the Croatian meats we sampled and Dvino's proprietor told us that it would pair well with another of our favorites, lamb. We brought a bottle home with us - a perfect souvenir to relax and remember our laid-back day in Old Town Dubrovnik!
  

 A dramatic view of the walls and descent to the Adriatic Sea.

A tower with three bells in Old Town Dubrovnik. 
 

View of Church of St. Blaisus across the tile rooftops of the old city. From this photo you can see the contrast of the old tiles compared to the newer tiles replaced after the Siege of 1991.

Strolling down the Stradun at dusk. The cobblestone pedestrian avenue is so polished that it is slippery. 

Our sampling of Croatian wines served atop a rustic wine barrel at Dvino Wine Bar. The perfect way to end our day in Old Town Dubrovnik.

Venice, Part 1: Crusing Through the Canals

     As our cruise ship left port, we were afforded a rather spectacular view of Venice as we proceeded down the Canale della Giudecca, a wide stretch of water that separates the isle of Giudecca from the main islands of Venice. The canal was lined with grand marble churches and palazzos typical of the periods of Venetian affluence in which they were built. It was almost sunset when our ship passed into the Canale di San Marco, gliding by the world-famous Piazza San Marco and into Laguna Veneta. Buon Viaggio!

 Along the banks of the Canale di Fusina

 Santa Maria della Visitazione on the waterfront promenade of Dorsoduro.

 Il Redentore (Church of the Most Holy Redeemer) was a 16th-century church built to praise God for the deliverance of Venice during a major plague outbreak in the city. It was designed by Andrea Palladio and remains one of his most recognized works.

Piazza San Marco - From left to right, Biblioteca Marciana, Campanile (bell tower) and the Palazzo Ducale, home of the Venetian doges.

Cruise Time

  Cruising off into the Adriatic

         Recently, we've had a lot to celebrate - Matt's promotion, his completion of residency and passing score on the boards, our five-year wedding anniversary, both of our birthdays - but not a lot of time together to celebrate. That is why we decided to take a cruise for our first big European vacation. A cruise sounded like a nice compromise between sightseeing and relaxation, and a good way to spend some quality family time after all of the separations due to work and relocation that we've experienced this year.
       Luckily, we were able to catch the end of the Adriatic cruising season, which afforded cooler weather and less crowds than in the high season of summer. We chose a week-long journey aboard the Norwegian Jade because of the exciting itinerary (Croatia, Turkey, Greece - I've been a repeat visitor to Greece but it was Matt's first time), the children's programming for Christopher, and the options afforded by their Freestyle dining program - classic cruise dining room, specialty restaurants and 24-hour room service.
       Our time on the ship was all about fun and relaxation. We spent leisurely afternoons reading or just watching the ship's wake expand out into the sea as we floated past mountainous islands and coastline. Christopher had a blast at the Tree Top Kid's Club, where energetic counselors led themed activities based on our destinations. At the pool, Matt and Christopher braved the very high, very swirly water slide. I got a chance to relax with a "fire and ice" pedicure at the spa. Almost every day, we sought out Christopher's favorite - the pianist in the two-story Atrium. And all of that was just on the ship! I'll be posting more from our ports of call later this week.

Christopher enjoyed watching the bustle and business of the ports. Here he sits with his dad for a better view of the tug that got our ship underway in Venice. 

 Room service was a definite perk when we just felt like relaxing in our suite. This lamb shank, butternut squash and spicy bean cassoulet was delicious. 

 Positively my favorite thing to do onboard. Grab a book, sit on the balcony and watch the sun glint off the water.