Greek Theater in Four Acts

     For each of our trips, I have tried to create some fun age-appropriate activities for Christopher that will get him involved and teach him a little bit about the history or culture of the place we will be visiting. For Malta, we made swords and shields and found some picture books about knights at the Sigonella library. Ancient Greece has been a passion of mine since I was very young, so I couldn't wait to think of some exciting ways to introduce Christopher to such an amazing time in Western history.
      I knew that we were going to visit the Archaeological Museum in Athens and see one of its prize artifacts, the "Mask of Agamemnon." I thought making masks might be an easy way for Christopher to recognize something we had talked about before our trip. Before we left, we had a silly afternoon with paper plates, glue and gold paint. On the cruise, we put on some performances for Matt that were definitely more comedy than tragedy. And at the Archaeological Museum, to my delight, and the surprise of some nearby adult museum goers, Christopher exclaimed "The Mask of Agamemnon!" when we walked in front of the case where it was held. Mama was so proud! :)

 Prologue

 Parados

 Parabasis

Exodus

The real "Mask of Agamemnon"

Dubrovnik: Wine and the Walled City

A view of the Franciscan Monastery and down the Stradun from above the Pile Gate.

     Our first port of call was Dubrovnik, Croatia. Before our visit, my impression of Croatia had been from the many news images of war torn devastation that came from the breakup of the former Yugoslavia in 1991. I knew that image was outdated because since that time, Croatia has rebuilt and redesigned itself as a tourist destination featuring miles of pristine Adriatic coastline and cultural-rich towns and cities. 
     Dubrovnik, often called"the Pearl of the Adriatic," was founded in the 7th century and began to flourish as a seaport by the 13th century. Over the course of several hundred years, Dubrovnik was ruled by powers such as Venice, Austria and Yugoslavia, until it was liberated by the Croatian Army in 1992. In 1979, the old town was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site for its well-preserved medieval walls and its Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, monasteries and palaces. 
      We enjoyed a nice leisurely afternoon and evening in Old Town Dubrovnik. Matt and I have quickly adapted our tourism itineraries to traveling with a toddler. Though Christopher is an excellent traveler and at least mildly interested in most everything he comes across, he has his limitations. Our most effective strategy has been to pick a few highlights to explore at relaxed pace with several snack and play breaks inbetween. We might not make it to all of the noted sites in a city, but I feel like the slower pace has enabled us to soak in bit more of the atmosphere than if we had been running from landmark to landmark. 
      In Dubrovnik, we chose to walk along the city walls, which gave us a panoramic view of both Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea. The walls were built between the 12th and 17th centuries and are reinforced by intermittent towers and bastions. The walk was at times narrow, marked by steep stairs and uneven cobblestone, but we were able to get an amazing look into the city as it bustled below us. Through the spread of rust-tiled roofs, we were able to spot laundry lines heavy with shirts and linens, cats sauntering down alleyways and children kicking a ball in a courtyard. About halfway through our walk, we stopped at a wall-top cafe for some refreshment. Christopher was enthralled by the orange juicer as well as the attractive teenage waitress that offered to demonstrate it for him. 
      Back at city level, we strolled down the Stradun, the wide pedestrian street that bisects the Old Town from the Pile Gate to the Bell Tower and Church of St. Blaisus. Near the end of our walk down the Stradun to the Pile Gate, we stopped at the Dvino Wine Bar for a sampling of Croatian wine, sausage and cheeses. We learned about Dvino through our Croatian guidebook, and the reccomendation was well warranted. 
      We tasted three wines made from the Plavac Mali grape grown on the Peljesac Peninsula of Croatia. Based on where the grape is grown and harvested, it produces three distinct wines. Plavac, grown on flat land, is a light and fruity wine. Postup, grown on landed hillside, is medium to full-bodied with a smooth, earthy feel. Finally, Dingac, grown on sea-facing hillside in full sun, is a heavy and dry wine. Matt and I decided our favorite was the Postup. It paired incredibly well with the Croatian meats we sampled and Dvino's proprietor told us that it would pair well with another of our favorites, lamb. We brought a bottle home with us - a perfect souvenir to relax and remember our laid-back day in Old Town Dubrovnik!
  

 A dramatic view of the walls and descent to the Adriatic Sea.

A tower with three bells in Old Town Dubrovnik. 
 

View of Church of St. Blaisus across the tile rooftops of the old city. From this photo you can see the contrast of the old tiles compared to the newer tiles replaced after the Siege of 1991.

Strolling down the Stradun at dusk. The cobblestone pedestrian avenue is so polished that it is slippery. 

Our sampling of Croatian wines served atop a rustic wine barrel at Dvino Wine Bar. The perfect way to end our day in Old Town Dubrovnik.

Venice, Part 1: Crusing Through the Canals

     As our cruise ship left port, we were afforded a rather spectacular view of Venice as we proceeded down the Canale della Giudecca, a wide stretch of water that separates the isle of Giudecca from the main islands of Venice. The canal was lined with grand marble churches and palazzos typical of the periods of Venetian affluence in which they were built. It was almost sunset when our ship passed into the Canale di San Marco, gliding by the world-famous Piazza San Marco and into Laguna Veneta. Buon Viaggio!

 Along the banks of the Canale di Fusina

 Santa Maria della Visitazione on the waterfront promenade of Dorsoduro.

 Il Redentore (Church of the Most Holy Redeemer) was a 16th-century church built to praise God for the deliverance of Venice during a major plague outbreak in the city. It was designed by Andrea Palladio and remains one of his most recognized works.

Piazza San Marco - From left to right, Biblioteca Marciana, Campanile (bell tower) and the Palazzo Ducale, home of the Venetian doges.

Cruise Time

  Cruising off into the Adriatic

         Recently, we've had a lot to celebrate - Matt's promotion, his completion of residency and passing score on the boards, our five-year wedding anniversary, both of our birthdays - but not a lot of time together to celebrate. That is why we decided to take a cruise for our first big European vacation. A cruise sounded like a nice compromise between sightseeing and relaxation, and a good way to spend some quality family time after all of the separations due to work and relocation that we've experienced this year.
       Luckily, we were able to catch the end of the Adriatic cruising season, which afforded cooler weather and less crowds than in the high season of summer. We chose a week-long journey aboard the Norwegian Jade because of the exciting itinerary (Croatia, Turkey, Greece - I've been a repeat visitor to Greece but it was Matt's first time), the children's programming for Christopher, and the options afforded by their Freestyle dining program - classic cruise dining room, specialty restaurants and 24-hour room service.
       Our time on the ship was all about fun and relaxation. We spent leisurely afternoons reading or just watching the ship's wake expand out into the sea as we floated past mountainous islands and coastline. Christopher had a blast at the Tree Top Kid's Club, where energetic counselors led themed activities based on our destinations. At the pool, Matt and Christopher braved the very high, very swirly water slide. I got a chance to relax with a "fire and ice" pedicure at the spa. Almost every day, we sought out Christopher's favorite - the pianist in the two-story Atrium. And all of that was just on the ship! I'll be posting more from our ports of call later this week.

Christopher enjoyed watching the bustle and business of the ports. Here he sits with his dad for a better view of the tug that got our ship underway in Venice. 

 Room service was a definite perk when we just felt like relaxing in our suite. This lamb shank, butternut squash and spicy bean cassoulet was delicious. 

 Positively my favorite thing to do onboard. Grab a book, sit on the balcony and watch the sun glint off the water.

All About Ricotta

Madam Malerba, chef of Malerba Antico teaches us how to prepare tuma fritte.

     Last week, Christopher and I traveled with a group of other Americans to a turismo rurale farm to see the production of ricotta cheese. We got to see every step of the process, from the sheep that produce the milk to the kitchen where Madame Malerba (wife of owner, Philippe Malerba) taught us to prepare an appetizer, tuma fritte, and sweetened, fruited ricotta to fill cannoli. After the demonstration, and once the cheese we saw made was ready, we sat down to an incredible lunch that featured ricotta and other cheeses prepared at Malerba Antico. This was a real treat because recently Malerba Antico was awarded national recognition for their ricotta. Christopher and I came hope with a container of fresh ricotta that we used for the next few days with melon, pistachio and honey for breakfast, spread on toast for lunch and accompanying pasta and meat sauce for dinner.

 

 A cheese maker stirs the vat of sheep milk and rennet. First, tuma cheese is removed from the vat and placed in a wicker basket. The remaining mixture becomes ricotta.

As the cheese forms, the cheese maker offers Christopher a pony ride. Whether it be sweet treats or opportunities to explore or play, the Sicilians have not hesitated to pay special attention to the children in our party.

 Sheep feeding and resting in the barn. They are accompanied by several goat friends that help keep them heading in the right direction when they travel in a herd. The shepherds of the Malerba sheep like to walk them long distances because it helps the quality of milk production.

Christopher visits with a two-day old lamb. "It's so cute!" he proclaimed.

Mdina: Malta's Silent City

      
      By and far, our favorite experience on Malta was our trip to the walled, medieval city of Mdina. Mdina was the former capital of the island, and is now known as The Silent City because less than three hundred residents reside behind its walls. Automobiles are banned past the main gates (over an empty moat), so the only ways to tour the city are by foot or horse carriage. We opted for the horse carriage and Maltese guide, and it was truly rewarding because nothing compared to the atmosphere of the horse's hoofbeats echoing down the narrow stone corridors as we peered ahead to discover what was around each turn. 
      After our tour was over, we passed back across the stone bridge to wander the streets a little bit longer and have lunch at a cafe located in the former Carmelite priory. Christopher was treated to a milkshake, and we shared a pasta with Maltese sausage and a Maltese crusted pizza with chicken and mushrooms. We stopped at a few shops, and then it was time to head back to the 21st century and descend the hill into modern Malta.

 The streets were very narrow and winding. Many times our carriage driver had to ring a bell to let others know that we were coming. 

 Most of Mdina's former palaces are now private homes. Is this one for sale? I'm ready to move in!

 One of the bell towers of the Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul. It was built in the traditional location where the Apostle Paul met Publius after his ship wrecked on Malta.

Our horse leads the way through another winding corridor in Mdina. Many of the buildings featured iron streetlamps with amber glass like the one ahead.

The Knights of St. John

Exterior of the Grand Master's Palace in Valletta, current home of Malta's Parliament.

      The Knights of St. John, or Knights Hospitaller, were one of the most famous Christian orders of knights in the Middle Ages. Founded in the early 11th century, the order was charged with providing care for religious pilgrims to the Holy Land. In 1530, as part of an agreement with Charles V of Spain, the Knights were given Malta in exchange for the yearly gift of one of its native falcons (later a plot point in Dashiell Hammett's The Maltese Falcon which I read during the weekend). In return, the Knights had a permanent location from which they could administer aid  to Holy Land travelers as well as launching naval actions against the Ottomans and Barbary pirates. 

      During their almost three-hundred-year residency on Malta, the Knights built and fortified the capital city of Valletta and filled its palace and cathedral with the best art, tapestries and cultural treasures that their accumulated fortunes could provide. The wealth amassed by the Knights came under scrutiny and it was argued that they became corrupted from their original cause and were living idly in decadence. The power of the Knights and their support by European leaders weakened until 1798 when Malta was seized by Napoleon. 

Armoury Corridor - The walls are lined with armor, the portraits of former Grand Masters and murals of naval battles. The marble floor features coats of arms of the noble families of the Knights of St. John.

 

 Christopher was excited to be where real knights lived and see their armor. We had been reading several books featuring knights in preparation for our visit. He might have been slightly disappointed that we didn't encounter any dragons.

 St. John Co-Cathedral in Valletta.

 The interior of the co-cathedral was covered floor to ceiling in gilt, murals and marble.

 Altar of the Co-Cathedral. Note the Maltese Crosses on the railing in the lower left of the photo.

"I'm Three": An Interview with Christopher

   
     The birthday boy was slightly reluctant to sit down for an interview. "I need to concentrate on my truck first," he told me with a determined look in his blue eyes. "I need you to hold this scoop" he said as he placed a toy shovel in my hands. Hopeful for some insight I persisted. "If I help you work, can I ask you some questions?" He was firm. "No. Soon. I need to finish this job first."

     After a few minutes, he sat down on the carpet and was ready to take my questions. He looked relaxed in his firetruck pajamas as he toyed with a blue plastic drill set.

How old are you? Three.
What makes you happy? Trucks.
What is your favorite animal? Bees.
What is your favorite food? Cake.
What is your favorite TV show? Mighty Machines.
What is your favorite toy? Crane truck with bucket.
What do you like to do? Play garbage trucks, fire trucks and cars.
What is your favorite color? Green.
What is your favorite song? The Garbage Truck Comes (an original and ever evolving composition).
Who is your best friend? Nicholas.
What is your favorite thing to do with Mommy? (taps interviewer's nose) Take care of her. 
What is your favorite thing to do with Daddy? Have fun. Play dinosaurs and dragons.
Where is your favorite place to go? Playground.
What is your favorite book? Dinotrux
What do you want to do when you grow up? Be tall and drive a little car.

Malta Bene

    
       The expression "molto bene" means "very good" in Italian, and that is exactly how we would describe our weekend on the island of Malta, located south of Sicily in the Mediterranean Sea. Welcome visitors to the island have been taken with the inhabitants' hospitality for millennia. The Apostle Paul, when shipwrecked on the island, found "the native people showed us unusual kindness, for they kindled a fire and welcomed us all" (Acts 28:2). Malta was also the home of Calypso, another famed hostess that kept Odysseus luxuriously fed and sheltered in Homer's Odyssey. Unwelcome visitors have been faced with strong walls of defense from successive ruling powerhouses from the ancient Romans to the medieval Knights of St. John to the British from whom they gained their independence in 1964.
         The colorful history of Malta gave us plenty to explore during our visit, but we also made some time to relax, have some fun and sample the famous Maltese food and hospitality. In the next couple of days, I will be highlighting our favorite experiences. For now, I hope you enjoy some pictures of our weekend. Have a great Labor Day!

At a Valletta cafe, Christopher and Matt toast to a successful ferry ride and start to our vacation in Malta. Christopher's highlights include his first time at the beach, drinking a milkshake in a medieval Carmelite priory and regaling the dinner waitstaff with tale of his windy ride on the top of a double decker Malta bus.

 The view of St. Julian's Bay from our balcony at the InterContinental Malta.

St. Paul's Bay is named because according to tradition, this is where Paul was shipwrecked on his way to Rome. He preached on Malta for a time in the city of Melita (now Rabat) and is honored with several churches and a cathedral on the island.

During World War II, a German bomb pierced the Rotunda of Mosta during evening mass. Miraculously, the bomb did not explode, saving the lives of almost 300 parishoners. Malta has the unfortunate distinction of being the most bombed country during the war.

       

Benvenuti Sicilia

  

      It's hard to believe four weeks have passed since we arrived in Sicily. We've moved into our new home, our furniture (and Christopher's TOYS) have been delivered, our car is here and we have successfully completed our two-week base and intercultural orientations. Now that the boxes are unpacked and Matt has started at the hospital, I feel like we are getting settled into our new life. I decided it would be a perfect time to start blogging about all of our new adventures. Here are some of the highlights of our Sicilian odyssey thus far.

1. The landscape. My first view of Sicily was as our plane was descending upon the island. Through the tiny plane window, I could see the dark, smoky smudge of Mt. Etna, fields of golden flax and rugged trees with loden green foliage. It reminded me heavily of Van Gogh's cypress paintings, Wheat Field with Cypresses and Road with Cypress and Star. As the artist described the trees "always occupying my thoughts," the richness of the Sicilian countryside that surrounds us is always close in my mind.

2. Our blessings. Christopher slept almost the entire flight from Virginia. Thanks to our lovely sponsor, our house was ready with loaner furniture and kitchen equipment when we arrived. Despite being told things move slowly in August because most Italians are on vacation, our furniture and car were able to be picked up within a week. We had internet access almost immediately. Christopher enjoyed his full days at the Child Development Center (his first time in all-day care) while Matt and I went to orientation. The time change wasn't rough on our sleep schedules. Our house is really nice and our neighbors have been friendly and welcoming.

3. Sicilian food. We've tried several culinary delights and types of restaurants. Dishes are very seasonal so everything has been fresh and delicious. We've been to a small, traditional restaurant in a medieval village, an outdoor cafe situated in a piazza, a nice, urban restaurant, an agriturismo and we've even brought home and prepared food from the market. The agriturismo has been our definitive favorite. It's a farm-restaurant where over 80% of what you are served is grown or produced on site. The evening featured over seventeen dishes spread across hours of relaxed dining on a stone terrace.

4. The Sigonella Library. We stumbled upon the library on one of our first days here while we were trying to find a place to access our email. I'm not sure what I expected, but I was really impressed with their collection of books, magazines and DVDS and the services they offer. Christopher and I have already made several visits to story time and to check out books. They have a large collection of books on or about Sicily which was a delight to find because many of the titles were on my Amazon wishlist. And if there is something that they don't have in their catalog, they can have it shipped from one of the other base libraries anywhere in the world.