Belletrist: To market, to market

Sicilian blood oranges

Monday morning usually means a trip to the Catania market. It is a great way to start the week, stocking up on needed produce and cheeses and taking part in the daily bustle of Italian life. I think I enjoy absorbing the atmosphere and its routines just as much as I like having farm fresh foods for our table. Unlike the orderly and immaculate markets I was used to in Salzburg and Nice, the Catania market is bursting with energy and activity: dogs sneak around the butcher stands hoping for some snacks, vendors shout out specials trying to entice the crowd to make a purchase, friends enthusiastically greet each other and stop to chat. It's messy and hectic, but an undeniably real experience of daily Italian life.

The entrance to the market is behind a fountain giving an open view of where the River Amenano runs under the city. Behind the fountain, you can descend into the fish market, named by many famous chefs as one of the best in the world, or proceed down several narrow streets of stalls selling meats, cheeses and produce. The meat and fish displays are definitely not for the squeamish. The smells are strong, the meat and seafood is displayed quite graphically and the butchers and fishmongers work right in front of the customers actively preparing their orders.

Though I occasionally buy meat (we are spoiled by a local butcher that delivers to our residence complex), my weekly shopping list typically includes fresh ricotta cheese, tomatoes, and whatever other seasonal fruits and vegetables look particularly appetizing that week. Since European measurement is metric, most items are sold by the kilo (roughly two pounds). I quickly learned the term mezzo kilo (half kilo) since that tends to be just the right amount for our family. After completing my list and tucking all of my finds in my canvas market bag, I usually end my morning with cappuccino and a pastry at a nearby cafe.