Magnificent Ephesus

 

Library of Celsus at Ephesus

      I really wish that we would have had more than one day in Turkey. However, the day that we did get to spend was full of unique experiences that helped make it our favorite port call on the cruise. We docked in the port city of Izmir, once known as Smyrna (in an interesting connection to our earlier travels, the Knights of Malta were once defeated in battle in Smyrna). We were able to see a modern Turkish city and learned that we were in Asiatic Turkey as opposed to European Turkey. 

      Our next stop was "Magnificent Ephesus" as our tour guide kept promising us on the short bus ride to the archaeological site. Ephesus truly is an all-star of the Ancient World. Founded by the Greeks and later ruled by the Romans, it was one of the largest cities and commercial centers in the Mediterranean. The names of the prominent residents and guests that walked its cobblestones is a veritable Who's Who of ancient history.

      According to legend, Ephesus was founded after its location was indicated by the Oracle of Delphi to an Athenian prince. It was ruled by Croesus of Lydia until conquered by Cyrus the Great and his mighty Persian army. Alexander the Great defeated the Persians and marched triumphantly through Ephesus' gates in 334 BC. The Emperor Augustus made Ephesus the capital of proconsular Asia and shortly thereafter, the Apostle Paul came to Ephesus as a vantage point to manage his evangelical efforts across the region. The orator and statesman Cicero called his arrival and reception to the city "one of the most flattering experiences of my life."  Later, after a sacking by the Goths, the city was rebuilt by the Byzantine emperors Constantine and Justinian.

     Ephesus' decline came not from one of the many conquering powers, but a force of nature. Slowly, over several centuries, the harbor was filled with silt from the river, rendering it unreachable from the Aegean Sea and its strategic location for trade. The city fell to ruin and was largely ignored until German and Austrian archaeologists began excavating in 1895. It is estimated that the ruins that have been excavated only represent about 15% of the former city. However, walking through them easily gave us an idea of the splendor that was Ephesus. One could easily imagine the bustling city and its crowds gathered to do business and discuss politics. Magnificent indeed!

Street of the Curetes leading from the political to the public areas of Ephesus. This main street was lined with shops and behind them on the hill stood private houses.  Instead of tourists and guides holding vibrant orange umbrellas, the passage was once bustling with commerce.

The Library of Celsus was not built during Paul's time in Ephesus; however, he would have been familiar with the Gate of Augustus at the right that leads to the agora. Standing on the steps and in the ruins of the library was an amazing experience. The carvings were so highly detailed and well preserved. The accessibility was incredible. Unlike most ruins I have toured, you could walk right in and imagine yourself as a citizen of Ephesus. 

Looking up while standing at the front of the Library of Celsus. The carved detail and its preservation are amazing. Completed in 135 AD, it is one of the few remaining examples of a Roman influenced public library. At its height, it stored 12,000 scrolls.

Columns surrounding the commercial agora of Ephesus. Christian missionaries like Paul, Timothy and Barnabas would have worked in this space both at the trades that supported their livelihood and at spreading the message of Christianity. Their grassroots efforts began in the agora and other public spaces. As they gathered followers, they would begin to meet in private homes to worship.

Columns lining the other side of the agora. Now called the Arcadian Way, this thoroughfare led to the western gates of Ephesus and the adjacent harbor. There is an illustration very similar to this one in the Cokesbury Bible I was given at Duff Street United Methodist Church when I was promoted to third grade. 

Ampitheater of Epehesus. Paul often spoke to gathering here and was imprisoned on the hill above the ampitheater. It is thought that this is where he wrote the letter that would become 1 Corinthians. During Greek rule, the ampitheater was used to stage dramatic performances. Later, it became a venue for gladitorial combat under the Romans. Most recently, it has been used as a venue for rock concerts until it was discovered the amplification was damaging the ruins.