Friday, October 19, 2012

Dubrovnik: Wine and the Walled City

A view of the Franciscan Monastery and down the Stradun from above the Pile Gate.

     Our first port of call was Dubrovnik, Croatia. Before our visit, my impression of Croatia had been from the many news images of war torn devastation that came from the breakup of the former Yugoslavia in 1991. I knew that image was outdated because since that time, Croatia has rebuilt and redesigned itself as a tourist destination featuring miles of pristine Adriatic coastline and cultural-rich towns and cities. 
     Dubrovnik, often called"the Pearl of the Adriatic," was founded in the 7th century and began to flourish as a seaport by the 13th century. Over the course of several hundred years, Dubrovnik was ruled by powers such as Venice, Austria and Yugoslavia, until it was liberated by the Croatian Army in 1992. In 1979, the old town was named an UNESCO World Heritage Site for its well-preserved medieval walls and its Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, monasteries and palaces. 
      We enjoyed a nice leisurely afternoon and evening in Old Town Dubrovnik. Matt and I have quickly adapted our tourism itineraries to traveling with a toddler. Though Christopher is an excellent traveler and at least mildly interested in most everything he comes across, he has his limitations. Our most effective strategy has been to pick a few highlights to explore at relaxed pace with several snack and play breaks inbetween. We might not make it to all of the noted sites in a city, but I feel like the slower pace has enabled us to soak in bit more of the atmosphere than if we had been running from landmark to landmark. 
      In Dubrovnik, we chose to walk along the city walls, which gave us a panoramic view of both Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea. The walls were built between the 12th and 17th centuries and are reinforced by intermittent towers and bastions. The walk was at times narrow, marked by steep stairs and uneven cobblestone, but we were able to get an amazing look into the city as it bustled below us. Through the spread of rust-tiled roofs, we were able to spot laundry lines heavy with shirts and linens, cats sauntering down alleyways and children kicking a ball in a courtyard. About halfway through our walk, we stopped at a wall-top cafe for some refreshment. Christopher was enthralled by the orange juicer as well as the attractive teenage waitress that offered to demonstrate it for him. 
      Back at city level, we strolled down the Stradun, the wide pedestrian street that bisects the Old Town from the Pile Gate to the Bell Tower and Church of St. Blaisus. Near the end of our walk down the Stradun to the Pile Gate, we stopped at the Dvino Wine Bar for a sampling of Croatian wine, sausage and cheeses. We learned about Dvino through our Croatian guidebook, and the reccomendation was well warranted. 
      We tasted three wines made from the Plavac Mali grape grown on the Peljesac Peninsula of Croatia. Based on where the grape is grown and harvested, it produces three distinct wines. Plavac, grown on flat land, is a light and fruity wine. Postup, grown on landed hillside, is medium to full-bodied with a smooth, earthy feel. Finally, Dingac, grown on sea-facing hillside in full sun, is a heavy and dry wine. Matt and I decided our favorite was the Postup. It paired incredibly well with the Croatian meats we sampled and Dvino's proprietor told us that it would pair well with another of our favorites, lamb. We brought a bottle home with us - a perfect souvenir to relax and remember our laid-back day in Old Town Dubrovnik!
  

 A dramatic view of the walls and descent to the Adriatic Sea.

A tower with three bells in Old Town Dubrovnik. 
 
View of Church of St. Blaisus across the tile rooftops of the old city. From this photo you can see the contrast of the old tiles compared to the newer tiles replaced after the Siege of 1991.
Strolling down the Stradun at dusk. The cobblestone pedestrian avenue is so polished that it is slippery. 
Our sampling of Croatian wines served atop a rustic wine barrel at Dvino Wine Bar. The perfect way to end our day in Old Town Dubrovnik.

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