Picturesque

An ume blossom Matt spotted at the Imperial Palace

Tiles along the wall at the Golden Pavilion

Kyoto: Golden Pavilion

Kinkaku-ji is one of the most recognizable Japanese structures. It was originally built in 1397 to serve as a retirement residence for one of the shoguns, but was later converted to a place to store relics of Buddha when the surrounding grounds became a Zen temple. In 1950, the pavilion was set on fire by a monk’s suicide attempt. He survived but the temple was badly burned and required extensive rebuilding and repair.

The glinting gold appearance of the pavilion is created by heavy layers of pure gold leaf and Japanese lacquer on the top two stories of the structure. It sits at the edge of a large pond that reflects the sparkling building and sky as a mirror image. We were able to walk along the gardens surrounding the pond to get different views of the pavilion. It wasn’t as large as Matt and I had imagined it to be, but it was an impressive structure nonetheless.

Kyoto: Imperial Palace

Entrance into Inner Courtyard

The Imperial Palace of Kyoto served as the Japanese emperor’s home until 1868 when the capital moved to Edo (now Tokyo). However, it is still used for coronation ceremonies, most recently that of the Showa emperor, Hirohito, in 1926. The palace, constructed of cypress and tile in the Heian style, has been destroyed and rebuilt eight times, the last construction taking place in 1855. It is now managed by the Imperial Household Agency, which grants permits for tours for foreign visitors through an application process. Though we were on an approved tour, our visit also coincided with one of the few days that the gates of the palace are open to the Japanese public.

Special features of the palace include the Shishinden, or Hall of State Ceremonies, that houses the Chrysanthemum Throne (the chrysanthemum is the symbol of the Japanese empire). A sakura tree and a tachibana (orange tree) stand on either side of the entrance to the Shishiden, as symbols of the purity and prosperity of the Japanese empire. Inside, the throne sits on a raised dais that can be separated from the rest of the room by a curtain. We learned from our guide, Kyono, that very few members of the Imperial Court were allowed access to the emperor and almost no one was allowed to make eye contact.

Inside the Inner Courtyard

The Shishiden, Hall of State Ceremonies

 

The palace grounds had several beautiful Japanese gardens featuring ponds crossed with stone and wood bridges.

Kyoto: Nijo Castle

The first stop on our day tour was Nijo Castle in the center of Kyoto. It was built in 1603 to serve as the Kyoto home of the Tokugawa Shogun, who shared rule with the emperor. In 1867, Nijo Castle was where the last shogun, Yoshinobu, returned total authority to the Imperial Court. The buildings in the castle complex later served as the location of the Imperial Court.

Nijo Castle was constructed of mostly cypress in the samurai class style and the interiors have several unique features. The first is the nightingale flooring of the corridors, which makes a chirping noise like a bird when walked upon. The floors served as a unique security system by protecting the shogun from sneak attacks. The walls of the interior rooms are painted with large murals depicting tigers, peacocks and other animals and decorated with wood carvings and gold leaf. Another feature we found interesting was one of the reception rooms where the shogun would meet with the emperor’s messengers. The messenger’s side of the room was a raised platform and the shogun’s side was recessed to show deference for imperial rule.

The grounds of the castle featured several traditional Japanese gardens with sakura and ume (apricot) trees, ponds and placed stones. These gardens, constructed by a famed Japanese landscape architect and tea master, still serve as the setting for government receptions and cultural events.

Hanami

To see the sakura in flower for the first time is to experience a new sensation.
                                        Percival Lowell,  The Soul of the Far East (1888)

One of the most fundamental characteristics of Japanese culture is its appreciation for the beauty of simplicity and nature. Perhaps the best demonstration of this aspect comes every spring with the time-honored and immensely popular tradition of hanami, or cherry blossom viewing. Japanese poetry and artwork dating back 1,000 years document the Japanese fascination with the lush pink blossoms that they believe represent a metaphor for life itself – beautiful, yet delicate and impermanent.

Each year, as spring approaches, sakura (cherry blossom) reports begin forecasting the budding and peak blooming periods across the country, much like winter ski reports in mountainous regions. During the sakura season, which lasts about two weeks in each particular region, millions of Japanese flock to view the blossoms by traveling to popular locations to relax, picnic and meditate on their beauty.

Matt and I decided that we wanted to experience Kyoto during this once-yearly event because we were sure it would be a once in a lifetime experience. This caused a little frustration in booking hotel rooms, because as we quickly discovered, the Japanese make their reservations as much as a year in advance, much like the San Fermin festival described by Hemingway in The Sun Also Rises. However, I can confidently say that the hard work of finding vacancies and switching hotels mid-visit was well worth the experience as soon as we began to see the clouds of sakura floating across the treetops around Kyoto.

The sakura were absolutely breathtaking at moments as they waved gently in the spring breezes. I can honestly say that walking through the forest of cherry trees at the Heian Shrine was one of the most beautiful experiences of my entire life. The stark contrast of the pale blush of the blossoms against the blue sky and the petals as they gently floated to the ground like snow were captivating. Under the canopy, it felt almost as if time stood slowed to a near standstill and the heady effect was slightly dizzying. Though I wouldn’t go as far to align myself with the Japanese maxim that life is complete after viewing the perfect cherry blossom, it certainly does make one marvel at the awe-inspiring resplendence of nature.

Our first taste of hanami at Nijo Castle. 

Standing here made me postively blissful. I could have frolicked among the cherry blossoms all day. 

Matt was able to get some beautiful close ups from his elevated vantage point. 

Gardens at the Imperial Palace - Hanami was originally a tradition of royalty and the samurai class, but became a national custom by 1000 A.D.

Sakura trees lining the banks of the Kamo River, a popular spot for hanami picnics.

Welcome to Kyoto

Kyoto is a city with a distinct spirit that quickly endears. After a day of seeing the major sights, Matt and I enjoyed a few days of just wandering around Kyoto and capturing its essence. By serving as the imperial capital of Japan for over 1,000 years, the city is dotted with history-rich palaces, shrines and temples and brings to mind images of samurai and geisha. But make no mistake; it is also a modern city – the 7th largest in Japan with population of almost 1.5 million people. Modern buildings of steel and glass coexist with tile roofs and sliding paper doors. Both cars and bicycles carry people down broad modern thoroughfares and narrow alleys strung with paper lanterns. Throngs of tourists from across the globe walk side by side with Japanese in kimono and haori.

With every turn, whether at the 400-year old market or 20th century train station, Matt and I found something to marvel at and behold. And it wasn’t just because we were trying out our new digital camera. We spoke more Japanese than we have our entire time here and at the same time more English with Japanese speakers. The people of Kyoto we encountered, from the tradesmen to the taxi drivers, took great pride in their city and were excited to share its delights with us. This was special to me because in my travels, I have become slightly jaded and weary of those who want to sell, sell, sell. I think the proof is in our experiences – one of our taxi drivers presented us with a hand drawn map of the city that he had created with pen and ink; at a family kitchen store, the saleswoman wanted to make sure I knew exactly how to use a certain type of knife and then gave me a lesson on how to care for it so it would last a lifetime.

I fell in love with Kyoto for its beauty, its people, its magnificent historic sights and one-of-a-kind experiences. But I also fell in love with Kyoto because, as I told Matt one evening as we were dining on some of the best sushi in the world, it is a romantic city. It was the perfect place for us to stroll hand in hand through gardens of cherry blossoms or dissolve into our own world over a meal with chopsticks and hot tea. It was just the right place to live in the moment with each other – reveling in each other’s excitement when we saw something delightful, fussing at each other when trying to figure out how to put on a kimono and laughing endlessly over stinky shoes and the quirks of Japanese bathroom decor.

I don’t know if our pictures truly do the spirit of the city justice because it was an experience that captured all of the senses. But I hope you are able to get a glimpse of what Matt and I enjoyed about the city. Welcome to Kyoto!

Kyoto Station  

Our view of the station ceiling from a morning coffee break

Old Street near the Kamo River

The Little Engine That Could...Very Quickly

Our sleek, ultra modern little engine that could.

Despite the language barrier, it wasn't too difficult to navigate the train system and many signs were marked in Japanese, German and English.

When Matt and I were planning our trip to Kyoto, we decided that getting there was going to be part of the fun. We booked flights to Tokyo so we could take the shinkansen from Haneda Airport to Kyoto Station. The shinkansen is Japan's high speed train system, but the word also refers to the trains that run at speeds up to 300km (186+) miles per hour. I am a particular fan of train travel, since it got me from here to there during several of my trips to Europe and provided great views of the countryside. However, unlike Europe, where the train quality varies greatly from country to country (live chickens, rioting Australians, gourmet dining car - I can tell some tales), the shinkansen has a reputation for state of the art technology and cleanliness. Matt and I enjoyed our ride immensely even though we didn't catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji through the cloudy skies as we passed by.

Coming Soon..........

Six little Miffys and Me

Ladies and gentlemen, Belletrist readers of all ages....My independent study is almost complete (with relatively little stress other than the desiring of lattes and our modem quitting on me earlier today) and I am looking forward to some relaxation and posting our Kyoto blogs. Be prepared for some of the most gorgeous blossoms you have ever seen, kimonos, swords, temples, shrines, gardens and more....

Back from Kyoto

We returned from our long weekend in Kyoto on Monday evening. Although we were happy to be back and snug in our own apartment, I can safely say we left a city that is now very dear to us and that we will remember for a long time to come. We had an incredible time and took over 4G of pictures on our new digital camera. I can't wait to share some of our favorites on the blog, but for the sake of finishing up my independent study, I am going to wait until next week when my papers are turned in and I'm free of academic responsibility.

Now that we are back on Okinawa, we have barely had time to unpack before Matt was back to the clinic and I had to teach preschool on Tuesday morning. Matt had a relatively easy first morning back with far fewer patients than usual (he saw 274 in March alone), and I was treated to a special surprise at preschool - it was Teacher Appreciation Day! The mothers of the preschoolers I have come to know and adore over the past several months prepared a large basket full of all kinds of treats that they presented to me at the end of the morning. When I got home and examined my gift, I found boxes of chocolates, two cookbooks, bamboo spoons, gourmet cookies and coffee, DVDs, books and more. It was a really, really nice gift, but I hope they know that one of the best things about the entire experience has been the absolute joy of working with their little ones. I always look forward to my preschool mornings and the smile I leave with lasts for days.

The best part of preschool yesterday was the honoring of Mitsukp, the Japanese lady who has been helping with the church's preschool classes for many years and is retiring this month. The other teachers and I lined all of the children up in the hallway and gave them a flower to present to her when they filed in the room. She was in tears she was so touched and I think many of the mothers were misty-eyed as well (and so were a few of the toddlers that didn't want to give up their flowers!). I have had the pleasure of working with her in my room and she is wonderful with the children, so it was great to see her recognized for her work. Did I mention that she's in her late-80's? Indeed, and she can juggle and play ring-around-the-rosy with the spunk of a teenager.

Well, I must get back to writing on Japanese literature. Check back late next week for the start of the Kyoto blogs. I look forward to sharing our adventures in city exploring, sword hunting, kimono dressing and much more with you! Until then, take care and keep in touch!!

Springtime in Japan

Cape Zanpa Lighthouse

Spring may be my favorite season on Okinawa. The sky is sunny, and it's warm with a nice breeze. We've had some thunder showers at night, but by morning, the rain has cleared and only fresh puddles and the sound of tires swishing through them remain. The beautiful weather has allowed us to enjoy some of the scenic spots on the island in the past few weeks. Easter weekend, we joined the Snyders on an excursion to Cape Zanpa on the Yomitan peninsula and watched the waves of the East China Sea crash along the rocky shoreline from both the ground and the top of the lighthouse. Last week, we showed Anna around the island and admired the vibrancy of the blooming flowers and the lush green foliage growing almost every place we turned.

Now, we are preparing to head to Kyoto to participate in one of the Japanese's favorite spring pastimes, viewing cherry blossoms. We fly to Tokyo tomorrow, and after a couple hours on the famous bullet train (and hopefully a glimpse of Mt. Fuji) we will arrive in Kyoto, former capital of Japan and home to important historic and cultural sights as well as some of the most beautiful places to view the blossoms in the country. I'll be posting pictures and stories when we return next week. In the meantime, I hope springtime has touched your part of the world and that you are able to enjoy it sometime this week. Have a great weekend!